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Complete Guide for Fashion Brands

How to Make a Tech Pack for Clothing

A tech pack is the single most important document in garment manufacturing. It tells your factory exactly what to build, how to build it, and what materials to use. Without one, you are gambling with your money and your brand reputation. This guide walks you through every component, common pitfalls, real costs, and how AI is changing the process entirely.

Generated in the studio
Generated in the studio
Generated in the studio
Generated in the studio
Generated in the studio
Generated in the studio
DXF pattern, nested
DXF pattern, nested
Four angles, one garment
Four angles, one garment
5s brand film, AI

What Is a Tech Pack?

A tech pack — short for technical package — is a comprehensive document that communicates every detail of a garment to a manufacturer. Think of it as the blueprint for your clothing. Just as an architect would never hand a construction crew a napkin sketch and say “build this,” you should never send a factory a mood board and expect a usable sample.

A tech pack typically runs 8 to 25 pages and includes flat sketches, a bill of materials, a detailed size chart, construction specifications, color references, artwork placement instructions, and packaging guidelines. Every element exists because manufacturers have encountered the ambiguity that arises without it.

Manufacturers require tech packs for three reasons. First, they need to accurately cost your garment. Without knowing the exact materials, construction complexity, and trim requirements, a factory cannot give you a reliable price quote. Second, the pattern maker needs precise measurements and construction details to draft a pattern. Third, the production floor needs a reference document for quality control — something to measure finished garments against.

What happens without a tech pack? In the best case, your factory asks dozens of questions over email over several weeks, delaying your timeline. In the worst case, they make assumptions. They choose a cheaper fabric weight because you did not specify GSM. They use a basic overlock seam where you wanted a flat-felled seam. They attach the label at center back neck when you wanted it at the left side seam. You receive a sample that looks vaguely like your design but feels wrong in every detail. You pay for revisions. You lose weeks. Some brands lose entire seasons to this cycle.

Essential Components of a Tech Pack

Every tech pack shares the same core components regardless of garment type. Whether you are producing a basic cotton t-shirt or a fully constructed wool overcoat, these seven sections form the foundation of clear communication with your manufacturer.

1

Flat Sketch / Technical Drawing

The flat sketch is a two-dimensional line drawing of your garment shown from the front, back, and sometimes side views. Unlike a fashion illustration, a flat sketch is proportionally accurate and devoid of artistic stylization. It shows every seam line, stitch detail, pocket placement, button spacing, and hardware position. Manufacturers rely on the flat sketch as the visual anchor of the entire tech pack — it is the first thing they look at, and it sets the tone for how seriously they take your project.

Use consistent line weights: heavier lines for outer edges, lighter lines for interior construction details like darts and topstitching. Include callout lines pointing to specific details with brief annotations. Show the garment both closed and open if it has a closure system. For garments with linings, include a separate flat sketch of the interior construction.

2

Bill of Materials (BOM)

The Bill of Materials is a comprehensive inventory of every single component that goes into your garment. This includes shell fabric, lining fabric, interfacing, thread (color and weight), zippers (type, length, brand), buttons (material, diameter, shank vs. sew-through), labels (main label, care label, size label, hangtag), elastic, drawcords, grommets, rivets, snaps, and any other hardware or trim.

For each item, specify the supplier name, reference number, color (with Pantone code), composition, weight or gauge, and quantity per garment. A missing item in the BOM means the factory will either substitute something cheaper or halt production to ask you — both scenarios cost you time and money.

3

Size Chart & Points of Measure (POM)

The size chart defines the exact measurements for every size you plan to produce. Points of Measure (POM) are the specific locations on the garment where measurements are taken — chest width, body length, sleeve length, shoulder width, hem width, neck opening, armhole depth, and so on. Each POM must be clearly numbered and correspond to a measurement diagram.

Include tolerances for each measurement (typically +/- 0.5 cm for most garments, tighter for fitted pieces). Specify whether measurements are taken with the garment laid flat or hanging. Include a grading chart that shows the incremental difference between sizes — for example, a 2 cm chest grade between sizes means a size M chest is 2 cm wider than a size S.

4

Construction Details

Construction details specify exactly how the garment is assembled. This section covers seam types (French seam, flat-felled seam, overlock, bound seam), stitch types (lockstitch, chainstitch, coverstitch), stitches per inch (SPI), seam allowance widths, topstitching distances from edges, and finishing techniques for raw edges.

Use ISO 4915 stitch-type codes or ASTM seam classifications when communicating with factories that follow international standards. Specify thread tension requirements for stretch fabrics. Note any areas that require reinforcement — bartacks at pocket openings, stress points on waistbands, and high-wear areas like crotch seams on pants.

5

Color Specifications

Color is one of the most frequently botched elements in garment production, and vague color descriptions are the primary culprit. "Navy blue" means something different to every person on the planet. Your tech pack must include Pantone TPX (for textiles) or TCX (for cotton) references for every colored component — shell fabric, lining, thread, zipper tape, buttons, labels, and print inks.

Specify whether colors should be matched under D65 (daylight) or TL84 (store lighting) illuminants. Include an acceptable Delta E tolerance (typically 1.0 for premium brands, 1.5 for mid-market). If your garment involves multiple fabric types in the same color, note that dye lots between woven and knit fabrics will never match perfectly and specify the maximum acceptable variation.

6

Artwork & Print Placement

If your garment includes any printed graphics, embroidery, woven labels, patches, or appliques, each one needs its own detailed specification page. Include the artwork at actual size, specify the exact placement coordinates measured from reference points (e.g., "center of chest print sits 8 cm below the highest point of shoulder"), and define the printing method — screen print, DTG, sublimation, heat transfer, or discharge print.

For screen prints, specify ink types (plastisol, water-based, discharge) and the number of colors. For embroidery, specify thread brand and color numbers, stitch density, backing type, and whether the embroidery is done on-garment or as a separate patch. Always include a mockup showing the artwork in position on the flat sketch.

7

Packaging & Labeling Instructions

The final section of your tech pack covers how the finished garment should be packaged and labeled for shipment. This includes folding method, tissue paper placement, polybag dimensions, hangtag attachment location and method, sticker seals, carton packing configuration (how many units per carton, carton dimensions), and any brand-specific packaging elements like custom tissue paper or branded stickers.

Specify care label content including fiber composition, washing instructions (using ASTM or ISO symbols), country of origin, and RN/CA number. Include the exact placement of each label — main label at center back neck, size label below main label, care label at left side seam 10 cm from hem. Many brands overlook packaging in their tech packs and then face repackaging costs at the warehouse.

Traditional Tech Pack Creation: Cost, Timeline & Workflow

The traditional path to creating a tech pack involves hiring a freelance technical designer or working with a product development agency. Here is what that looks like in terms of real costs and timelines.

$150 – $500

Cost per tech pack

Varies by complexity

1 – 2 weeks

Typical turnaround

Longer for complex garments

2 – 4 rounds

Revision cycles

Each round adds days

A freelance technical designer typically works from your sketches, reference images, and verbal descriptions. They create the flat sketches in Adobe Illustrator, build the measurement charts in Excel, and compile everything into a PDF. The process involves multiple rounds of feedback: you review the first draft, request changes to measurements or construction details, wait for revisions, and repeat until the tech pack is approved.

For a brand launching a 10-piece collection, the tech pack cost alone ranges from $1,500 to $5,000. Add the time cost — 2 to 4 weeks of calendar time before you can even submit to factories for quoting — and the traditional process becomes a significant bottleneck for small and medium-sized brands operating on tight timelines and tighter budgets.

Product development agencies offer more comprehensive services (they handle sourcing and sampling too) but charge $500 to $2,000 per style for tech pack creation as part of their development fee. This option makes sense for brands with budget but not expertise, though it creates dependency on an external partner for every new style.

The Faster Way in 2026: AI Design + Professional Pattern Makers

Smasher Studio pairs a fashion-trained AI orchestrator with a team of professional pattern makers. The AI handles the design work, and humans build the production documents. Here is how it works.

You describe your garment in natural language. Not in technical jargon — in plain English. You might say “an oversized boxy-fit hoodie in 400 GSM French terry, sand colorway, with a kangaroo pocket, ribbed cuffs and hem, and a woven label at center back neck.” The AI generates photoreal images of the piece in seconds so you can refine the silhouette, fabric, and details until the design matches your vision.

When the design is ready, you order directly from the conversation. A professional pattern maker cuts a production AAMA/ASTM DXF-2 cutting pattern from your design. Delivery takes as little as 48 hours and costs $29 to $129 per garment. The full factory tech pack, with flat views, a detailed BOM with fabric composition and trim specifications, a size chart with POMs, construction details appropriate for the specified fabric, and color specifications, is a $10 add-on, and grading, marker layout and seam allowances are available as add-ons too, compared with $150 to $500 for the spec document alone from a freelancer.

1

Design Your Garment

Describe what you want to make — fabric, fit, details, colorway. The AI renders it in seconds.

2

Order the DXF Pattern

Confirm a short recap and pay a secure checkout link. $29 simple, $59 standard, $129 complex. Add the factory tech pack, grading, marker layout or seam allowances from $5 to $15.

3

Pattern Makers Deliver

Production DXF pattern files and any add-ons arrive in your Projects page. First revision free.

Because the tech pack add-on and the cutting pattern are authored together by the same pattern maker, the specification document and the production files never contradict each other — a common and costly failure point when they come from different freelancers. You get manufacturer-ready documents for first samples, factory quoting, and small-batch production, with professional expertise already in the loop.

Tech Pack Template: Page-by-Page Breakdown

Below is the page structure of a well-organized tech pack. While the exact number of pages varies by garment complexity, this template covers the standard layout that most manufacturers expect.

01

Cover Page

Brand name, style name, style number, season, date, version number, designer contact info, and a small thumbnail of the design. This page also includes a revision history table.

02

Flat Sketch — Front View

Full-scale front flat sketch with callout annotations for key construction details. Include zoomed-in detail views for complex areas like collar construction, pocket shapes, or closure systems.

03

Flat Sketch — Back View

Full-scale back flat sketch showing back panel construction, yoke details, back label placement, and any back-specific features like vents or pleats.

04

Colorways

Each colorway shown on a smaller flat sketch with all Pantone TPX/TCX references listed. If different colorways use different materials, note the substitutions clearly.

05

Bill of Materials

Table listing every component: material name, supplier, reference number, color (Pantone), composition, weight/gauge, quantity per garment, and placement on garment.

06

Points of Measure Diagram

Flat sketch with numbered measurement points. Each number corresponds to a row in the measurement chart. Include a legend defining how each measurement is taken.

07

Measurement Chart

Grid showing all POMs across all sizes with tolerances. Include the base size (typically M) and grading rules between sizes.

08

Construction Details

Zoomed-in cross-section diagrams of key seams, stitch types, and finishing. Specify SPI, seam allowances, and thread specifications for each construction area.

09

Artwork & Label Placement

Actual-size artwork with placement coordinates. For labels: show exact position, attachment method, and folding direction.

10

Packaging

Folding diagram, polybag specifications, hangtag attachment method, and carton packing configuration with unit counts.

Common Tech Pack Mistakes That Cost Brands Thousands

These are not hypothetical errors — they are mistakes we see brands make every week. Each one leads to rejected samples, production delays, or quality issues that erode margins and customer trust.

Using fashion illustrations instead of flat sketches

Fashion illustrations are beautiful but useless for manufacturing. They distort proportions for artistic effect, which means a pattern maker cannot extract accurate measurements or construction details from them. A factory needs a precise, proportionally correct flat sketch — not a stylized figure drawing with elongated legs and exaggerated shoulders.

Omitting measurement tolerances

Every measurement in your size chart needs a tolerance — the acceptable range of deviation. Without tolerances, you have no grounds to reject off-spec garments during quality control. A chest measurement of 56 cm with no tolerance is ambiguous. Is 56.8 cm acceptable? What about 55.2 cm? Define your tolerances upfront: +/- 0.5 cm is standard for most measurements, with tighter tolerances for fitted garments.

Referencing colors by name instead of Pantone codes

Calling a color "dusty rose" or "army green" invites interpretation. Your dusty rose might be the factory's salmon pink. Always use Pantone TPX or TCX references for textiles. Purchase a physical Pantone swatch book and reference the actual chip number. Digital Pantone colors on screen do not accurately represent the printed textile color — always reference the physical swatch.

Forgetting to specify seam allowances

Seam allowance is the fabric between the stitch line and the cut edge. If you do not specify it, the factory will use their default — which might be 1 cm when you needed 1.5 cm for a French seam, or 2 cm when your design requires a narrow 0.7 cm seam. This directly affects the garment's measurements and construction quality.

Not including a version history

Tech packs evolve through multiple revisions during the sampling process. Without clear version numbering and a changelog, you and your factory will inevitably end up working from different versions. The factory cuts a sample using v2 while you have already sent v4 with critical measurement changes. Always include a version table on page one with dates, version numbers, and a summary of changes.

Leaving out packaging specifications

Many first-time brands meticulously specify their garment construction but completely ignore packaging. The result: garments arrive folded incorrectly, in wrong-sized polybags, with hangtags attached in the wrong location, and packed in random carton configurations. Your warehouse team or 3PL then has to repackage everything, costing you $1 to $3 per unit in labor that could have been avoided.

How Manufacturers Actually Use Your Tech Pack

Understanding how factories use tech packs helps you create better ones. Your tech pack passes through at least four different departments, and each one extracts different information from it.

Merchandising & Costing

The merchandiser uses your BOM to calculate raw material costs, your construction details to estimate labor time, and your packaging specs to factor in finishing costs. A vague tech pack forces them to pad the quote with contingency pricing — meaning you pay more than you should.

Pattern Making

The pattern maker translates your flat sketch and measurement chart into a paper or digital pattern. They need your POM diagram to know exactly where each measurement is taken, your grading rules to create patterns for each size, and your seam allowances to add the correct fabric margins.

Production Floor

Sewing operators reference the construction detail pages for seam types, stitch specifications, and assembly sequence. The production manager uses the tech pack to set up the sewing line, allocate the right machines (overlock, flatlock, coverstitch), and train operators on garment-specific requirements.

Quality Control

QC inspectors measure finished garments against your size chart and tolerances. They check construction against your specified seam types and SPI. They verify color against your Pantone references. Without clear specifications, QC becomes subjective — and subjective QC is no QC at all.

The bottom line: your tech pack is not just a document for getting quotes. It is a living reference that follows your garment through every stage of production. The more precise and complete it is, the fewer questions arise on the factory floor, the fewer mistakes are made, and the faster you get from concept to finished product.

Tech Pack Cost Comparison: Traditional vs. Smasher Studio

FactorFreelance DesignerDev AgencySmasher Studio
Cost per tech pack$150 – $500$500 – $2,000$29 – $129 (incl. DXF pattern)
Turnaround time1 – 2 weeks2 – 4 weeksAs little as 48 hours
Revision cost$25 – $100/roundOften includedFirst revision free, then $5
10-style collection$1,500 – $5,000$5,000 – $20,000From $290
Best forComplex garments, bulk productionFull-service developmentFirst samples, quoting, small batches

Frequently Asked Questions About Tech Packs

How much does it cost to create a tech pack?+
Hiring a freelance technical designer costs $150 to $500 per tech pack. With Smasher Studio, you design the garment with AI and professional pattern makers then cut the production DXF pattern for $29 to $129 depending on garment complexity, first revision included. The full factory tech pack with measurements, BOM and construction details is a $10 add-on, and grading, marker layout and seam allowances are also available as add-ons. It is a human + AI workflow: the AI makes design iteration fast and cheap, while humans build the precision work manufacturers depend on. Faster and cheaper, without replacing the expertise.
What software do I need to make a tech pack?+
Traditional tech packs are created using Adobe Illustrator for flat sketches, combined with Excel or Google Sheets for measurement charts and BOMs. Some designers use specialized tools like Techpacker or Techpack Studio. Smasher Studio eliminates the need for any of these — you design your garment in natural language with AI, and professional pattern makers deliver your production DXF pattern, with a complete factory tech pack available as an add-on.
How many pages should a tech pack be?+
A thorough tech pack typically ranges from 8 to 25 pages depending on the garment. A basic t-shirt might need 8 to 10 pages, while a complex outerwear piece with multiple linings, pockets, and hardware could require 20 or more pages. Every page should serve a purpose — manufacturers dislike both incomplete tech packs and padded ones filled with irrelevant information.
Can I make a tech pack without design experience?+
Yes, but the traditional route has a steep learning curve. You need to understand garment construction, measurement standards, seam types, and technical drawing conventions. AI tools like Smasher Studio bridge this gap by translating your natural-language descriptions into properly formatted technical documents that manufacturers can actually use.
What file format should my tech pack be in?+
Most manufacturers prefer tech packs as PDF files because they preserve formatting across devices and operating systems. The source files are typically Adobe Illustrator (.ai) for the flat sketches and Excel (.xlsx) for the measurement charts. When sharing with factories, always send a single consolidated PDF with all pages in order.
Do I need a new tech pack for every colorway?+
Not necessarily. If the construction, materials, and measurements are identical across colorways, you can include a colorway page within a single tech pack that shows each color option with Pantone references. However, if different colorways use different materials (for example, a leather version vs. a canvas version), each version should have its own tech pack or a clearly separated section.
What happens if I send a manufacturer a garment without a tech pack?+
Most reputable manufacturers will refuse the order outright. Those that accept it will interpret your design however they see fit, which almost always results in a sample that looks nothing like what you envisioned. You will waste money on incorrect samples, face longer development cycles, and have no written standard to hold the factory accountable to. A tech pack is not optional — it is the contract between you and your manufacturer.
How often should I update a tech pack?+
Update your tech pack after every round of sampling feedback. Each revision should be versioned (v1, v2, v3) with a changelog noting what changed and why. Never overwrite previous versions — keep them archived so you can reference the evolution of the garment. A final "approved for production" version should be clearly marked and locked.

Related Guides

Stop Paying $500 for Tech Packs

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How to Make a Tech Pack for Clothing — Complete Guide 2026 | Smasher Studio | Smasher Studio