Complete Guide for Fashion Brands
How to Make a Tech Pack for Clothing
A tech pack is the single most important document in garment manufacturing. It tells your factory exactly what to build, how to build it, and what materials to use. Without one, you are gambling with your money and your brand reputation. This guide walks you through every component, common pitfalls, real costs, and how AI is changing the process entirely.





What Is a Tech Pack?
A tech pack — short for technical package — is a comprehensive document that communicates every detail of a garment to a manufacturer. Think of it as the blueprint for your clothing. Just as an architect would never hand a construction crew a napkin sketch and say “build this,” you should never send a factory a mood board and expect a usable sample.
A tech pack typically runs 8 to 25 pages and includes flat sketches, a bill of materials, a detailed size chart, construction specifications, color references, artwork placement instructions, and packaging guidelines. Every element exists because manufacturers have encountered the ambiguity that arises without it.
Manufacturers require tech packs for three reasons. First, they need to accurately cost your garment. Without knowing the exact materials, construction complexity, and trim requirements, a factory cannot give you a reliable price quote. Second, the pattern maker needs precise measurements and construction details to draft a pattern. Third, the production floor needs a reference document for quality control — something to measure finished garments against.
What happens without a tech pack? In the best case, your factory asks dozens of questions over email over several weeks, delaying your timeline. In the worst case, they make assumptions. They choose a cheaper fabric weight because you did not specify GSM. They use a basic overlock seam where you wanted a flat-felled seam. They attach the label at center back neck when you wanted it at the left side seam. You receive a sample that looks vaguely like your design but feels wrong in every detail. You pay for revisions. You lose weeks. Some brands lose entire seasons to this cycle.
Essential Components of a Tech Pack
Every tech pack shares the same core components regardless of garment type. Whether you are producing a basic cotton t-shirt or a fully constructed wool overcoat, these seven sections form the foundation of clear communication with your manufacturer.
Flat Sketch / Technical Drawing
The flat sketch is a two-dimensional line drawing of your garment shown from the front, back, and sometimes side views. Unlike a fashion illustration, a flat sketch is proportionally accurate and devoid of artistic stylization. It shows every seam line, stitch detail, pocket placement, button spacing, and hardware position. Manufacturers rely on the flat sketch as the visual anchor of the entire tech pack — it is the first thing they look at, and it sets the tone for how seriously they take your project.
Use consistent line weights: heavier lines for outer edges, lighter lines for interior construction details like darts and topstitching. Include callout lines pointing to specific details with brief annotations. Show the garment both closed and open if it has a closure system. For garments with linings, include a separate flat sketch of the interior construction.
Bill of Materials (BOM)
The Bill of Materials is a comprehensive inventory of every single component that goes into your garment. This includes shell fabric, lining fabric, interfacing, thread (color and weight), zippers (type, length, brand), buttons (material, diameter, shank vs. sew-through), labels (main label, care label, size label, hangtag), elastic, drawcords, grommets, rivets, snaps, and any other hardware or trim.
For each item, specify the supplier name, reference number, color (with Pantone code), composition, weight or gauge, and quantity per garment. A missing item in the BOM means the factory will either substitute something cheaper or halt production to ask you — both scenarios cost you time and money.
Size Chart & Points of Measure (POM)
The size chart defines the exact measurements for every size you plan to produce. Points of Measure (POM) are the specific locations on the garment where measurements are taken — chest width, body length, sleeve length, shoulder width, hem width, neck opening, armhole depth, and so on. Each POM must be clearly numbered and correspond to a measurement diagram.
Include tolerances for each measurement (typically +/- 0.5 cm for most garments, tighter for fitted pieces). Specify whether measurements are taken with the garment laid flat or hanging. Include a grading chart that shows the incremental difference between sizes — for example, a 2 cm chest grade between sizes means a size M chest is 2 cm wider than a size S.
Construction Details
Construction details specify exactly how the garment is assembled. This section covers seam types (French seam, flat-felled seam, overlock, bound seam), stitch types (lockstitch, chainstitch, coverstitch), stitches per inch (SPI), seam allowance widths, topstitching distances from edges, and finishing techniques for raw edges.
Use ISO 4915 stitch-type codes or ASTM seam classifications when communicating with factories that follow international standards. Specify thread tension requirements for stretch fabrics. Note any areas that require reinforcement — bartacks at pocket openings, stress points on waistbands, and high-wear areas like crotch seams on pants.
Color Specifications
Color is one of the most frequently botched elements in garment production, and vague color descriptions are the primary culprit. "Navy blue" means something different to every person on the planet. Your tech pack must include Pantone TPX (for textiles) or TCX (for cotton) references for every colored component — shell fabric, lining, thread, zipper tape, buttons, labels, and print inks.
Specify whether colors should be matched under D65 (daylight) or TL84 (store lighting) illuminants. Include an acceptable Delta E tolerance (typically 1.0 for premium brands, 1.5 for mid-market). If your garment involves multiple fabric types in the same color, note that dye lots between woven and knit fabrics will never match perfectly and specify the maximum acceptable variation.
Artwork & Print Placement
If your garment includes any printed graphics, embroidery, woven labels, patches, or appliques, each one needs its own detailed specification page. Include the artwork at actual size, specify the exact placement coordinates measured from reference points (e.g., "center of chest print sits 8 cm below the highest point of shoulder"), and define the printing method — screen print, DTG, sublimation, heat transfer, or discharge print.
For screen prints, specify ink types (plastisol, water-based, discharge) and the number of colors. For embroidery, specify thread brand and color numbers, stitch density, backing type, and whether the embroidery is done on-garment or as a separate patch. Always include a mockup showing the artwork in position on the flat sketch.
Packaging & Labeling Instructions
The final section of your tech pack covers how the finished garment should be packaged and labeled for shipment. This includes folding method, tissue paper placement, polybag dimensions, hangtag attachment location and method, sticker seals, carton packing configuration (how many units per carton, carton dimensions), and any brand-specific packaging elements like custom tissue paper or branded stickers.
Specify care label content including fiber composition, washing instructions (using ASTM or ISO symbols), country of origin, and RN/CA number. Include the exact placement of each label — main label at center back neck, size label below main label, care label at left side seam 10 cm from hem. Many brands overlook packaging in their tech packs and then face repackaging costs at the warehouse.
Traditional Tech Pack Creation: Cost, Timeline & Workflow
The traditional path to creating a tech pack involves hiring a freelance technical designer or working with a product development agency. Here is what that looks like in terms of real costs and timelines.
$150 – $500
Cost per tech pack
Varies by complexity
1 – 2 weeks
Typical turnaround
Longer for complex garments
2 – 4 rounds
Revision cycles
Each round adds days
A freelance technical designer typically works from your sketches, reference images, and verbal descriptions. They create the flat sketches in Adobe Illustrator, build the measurement charts in Excel, and compile everything into a PDF. The process involves multiple rounds of feedback: you review the first draft, request changes to measurements or construction details, wait for revisions, and repeat until the tech pack is approved.
For a brand launching a 10-piece collection, the tech pack cost alone ranges from $1,500 to $5,000. Add the time cost — 2 to 4 weeks of calendar time before you can even submit to factories for quoting — and the traditional process becomes a significant bottleneck for small and medium-sized brands operating on tight timelines and tighter budgets.
Product development agencies offer more comprehensive services (they handle sourcing and sampling too) but charge $500 to $2,000 per style for tech pack creation as part of their development fee. This option makes sense for brands with budget but not expertise, though it creates dependency on an external partner for every new style.
The Faster Way in 2026: AI Design + Professional Pattern Makers
Smasher Studio pairs a fashion-trained AI orchestrator with a team of professional pattern makers. The AI handles the design work, and humans build the production documents. Here is how it works.
You describe your garment in natural language. Not in technical jargon — in plain English. You might say “an oversized boxy-fit hoodie in 400 GSM French terry, sand colorway, with a kangaroo pocket, ribbed cuffs and hem, and a woven label at center back neck.” The AI generates photoreal images of the piece in seconds so you can refine the silhouette, fabric, and details until the design matches your vision.
When the design is ready, you order directly from the conversation. A professional pattern maker cuts a production AAMA/ASTM DXF-2 cutting pattern from your design. Delivery takes as little as 48 hours and costs $29 to $129 per garment. The full factory tech pack, with flat views, a detailed BOM with fabric composition and trim specifications, a size chart with POMs, construction details appropriate for the specified fabric, and color specifications, is a $10 add-on, and grading, marker layout and seam allowances are available as add-ons too, compared with $150 to $500 for the spec document alone from a freelancer.
Design Your Garment
Describe what you want to make — fabric, fit, details, colorway. The AI renders it in seconds.
Order the DXF Pattern
Confirm a short recap and pay a secure checkout link. $29 simple, $59 standard, $129 complex. Add the factory tech pack, grading, marker layout or seam allowances from $5 to $15.
Pattern Makers Deliver
Production DXF pattern files and any add-ons arrive in your Projects page. First revision free.
Because the tech pack add-on and the cutting pattern are authored together by the same pattern maker, the specification document and the production files never contradict each other — a common and costly failure point when they come from different freelancers. You get manufacturer-ready documents for first samples, factory quoting, and small-batch production, with professional expertise already in the loop.
Tech Pack Template: Page-by-Page Breakdown
Below is the page structure of a well-organized tech pack. While the exact number of pages varies by garment complexity, this template covers the standard layout that most manufacturers expect.
Cover Page
Brand name, style name, style number, season, date, version number, designer contact info, and a small thumbnail of the design. This page also includes a revision history table.
Flat Sketch — Front View
Full-scale front flat sketch with callout annotations for key construction details. Include zoomed-in detail views for complex areas like collar construction, pocket shapes, or closure systems.
Flat Sketch — Back View
Full-scale back flat sketch showing back panel construction, yoke details, back label placement, and any back-specific features like vents or pleats.
Colorways
Each colorway shown on a smaller flat sketch with all Pantone TPX/TCX references listed. If different colorways use different materials, note the substitutions clearly.
Bill of Materials
Table listing every component: material name, supplier, reference number, color (Pantone), composition, weight/gauge, quantity per garment, and placement on garment.
Points of Measure Diagram
Flat sketch with numbered measurement points. Each number corresponds to a row in the measurement chart. Include a legend defining how each measurement is taken.
Measurement Chart
Grid showing all POMs across all sizes with tolerances. Include the base size (typically M) and grading rules between sizes.
Construction Details
Zoomed-in cross-section diagrams of key seams, stitch types, and finishing. Specify SPI, seam allowances, and thread specifications for each construction area.
Artwork & Label Placement
Actual-size artwork with placement coordinates. For labels: show exact position, attachment method, and folding direction.
Packaging
Folding diagram, polybag specifications, hangtag attachment method, and carton packing configuration with unit counts.
Common Tech Pack Mistakes That Cost Brands Thousands
These are not hypothetical errors — they are mistakes we see brands make every week. Each one leads to rejected samples, production delays, or quality issues that erode margins and customer trust.
Using fashion illustrations instead of flat sketches
Fashion illustrations are beautiful but useless for manufacturing. They distort proportions for artistic effect, which means a pattern maker cannot extract accurate measurements or construction details from them. A factory needs a precise, proportionally correct flat sketch — not a stylized figure drawing with elongated legs and exaggerated shoulders.
Omitting measurement tolerances
Every measurement in your size chart needs a tolerance — the acceptable range of deviation. Without tolerances, you have no grounds to reject off-spec garments during quality control. A chest measurement of 56 cm with no tolerance is ambiguous. Is 56.8 cm acceptable? What about 55.2 cm? Define your tolerances upfront: +/- 0.5 cm is standard for most measurements, with tighter tolerances for fitted garments.
Referencing colors by name instead of Pantone codes
Calling a color "dusty rose" or "army green" invites interpretation. Your dusty rose might be the factory's salmon pink. Always use Pantone TPX or TCX references for textiles. Purchase a physical Pantone swatch book and reference the actual chip number. Digital Pantone colors on screen do not accurately represent the printed textile color — always reference the physical swatch.
Forgetting to specify seam allowances
Seam allowance is the fabric between the stitch line and the cut edge. If you do not specify it, the factory will use their default — which might be 1 cm when you needed 1.5 cm for a French seam, or 2 cm when your design requires a narrow 0.7 cm seam. This directly affects the garment's measurements and construction quality.
Not including a version history
Tech packs evolve through multiple revisions during the sampling process. Without clear version numbering and a changelog, you and your factory will inevitably end up working from different versions. The factory cuts a sample using v2 while you have already sent v4 with critical measurement changes. Always include a version table on page one with dates, version numbers, and a summary of changes.
Leaving out packaging specifications
Many first-time brands meticulously specify their garment construction but completely ignore packaging. The result: garments arrive folded incorrectly, in wrong-sized polybags, with hangtags attached in the wrong location, and packed in random carton configurations. Your warehouse team or 3PL then has to repackage everything, costing you $1 to $3 per unit in labor that could have been avoided.
How Manufacturers Actually Use Your Tech Pack
Understanding how factories use tech packs helps you create better ones. Your tech pack passes through at least four different departments, and each one extracts different information from it.
Merchandising & Costing
The merchandiser uses your BOM to calculate raw material costs, your construction details to estimate labor time, and your packaging specs to factor in finishing costs. A vague tech pack forces them to pad the quote with contingency pricing — meaning you pay more than you should.
Pattern Making
The pattern maker translates your flat sketch and measurement chart into a paper or digital pattern. They need your POM diagram to know exactly where each measurement is taken, your grading rules to create patterns for each size, and your seam allowances to add the correct fabric margins.
Production Floor
Sewing operators reference the construction detail pages for seam types, stitch specifications, and assembly sequence. The production manager uses the tech pack to set up the sewing line, allocate the right machines (overlock, flatlock, coverstitch), and train operators on garment-specific requirements.
Quality Control
QC inspectors measure finished garments against your size chart and tolerances. They check construction against your specified seam types and SPI. They verify color against your Pantone references. Without clear specifications, QC becomes subjective — and subjective QC is no QC at all.
The bottom line: your tech pack is not just a document for getting quotes. It is a living reference that follows your garment through every stage of production. The more precise and complete it is, the fewer questions arise on the factory floor, the fewer mistakes are made, and the faster you get from concept to finished product.
Tech Pack Cost Comparison: Traditional vs. Smasher Studio
| Factor | Freelance Designer | Dev Agency | Smasher Studio |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cost per tech pack | $150 – $500 | $500 – $2,000 | $29 – $129 (incl. DXF pattern) |
| Turnaround time | 1 – 2 weeks | 2 – 4 weeks | As little as 48 hours |
| Revision cost | $25 – $100/round | Often included | First revision free, then $5 |
| 10-style collection | $1,500 – $5,000 | $5,000 – $20,000 | From $290 |
| Best for | Complex garments, bulk production | Full-service development | First samples, quoting, small batches |
Frequently Asked Questions About Tech Packs
How much does it cost to create a tech pack?+
What software do I need to make a tech pack?+
How many pages should a tech pack be?+
Can I make a tech pack without design experience?+
What file format should my tech pack be in?+
Do I need a new tech pack for every colorway?+
What happens if I send a manufacturer a garment without a tech pack?+
How often should I update a tech pack?+
Related Guides
How to Find a Clothing Manufacturer
From Alibaba to local CMTs — the complete sourcing guide.
How to Start a Fashion Brand
Business plan, branding, production, and launch strategy.
AI Tech Pack Generator
Generate manufacturing-ready tech packs with AI in minutes.
How to Create a Lookbook
Build editorial-quality lookbooks for your collection.
Stop Paying $500 for Tech Packs
Design your garment with AI, then let professional pattern makers deliver the complete technical package with DXF pattern, from $29. Free to start, no credit card required.