Linen fabric guide

Linen Coat Design with AI

A linen coat is a specialist order: ask for heavyweight linen at 260 to 350 g/m², and expect fewer mills to take it on.

Of the 13 cloths this guide lists for this cut, it sits between duchess satin and cotton velvet in weight.

Next to cotton velvet, it is lighter, firmer, more matte and cooler to wear.

Linen Coat at a glance

Typical trade ranges, not one mill's figures: confirm them with your mill.

Typical length: 95 to 115 cm, from the high point of the shoulder
Defining details: Lapel or stand collar, single- or double-breasted front, back vent, full lining
Cloth needed: about 2.8 to 3.6 m of 150 cm cloth, roughly $31 to $120 of cloth at typical prices

Typical figures for an adult size M. The pattern tier is set from the real piece count when you order.

In a coat it gives a sharp shoulder and crisp edges, and it creases where the body bends.

Cut long, a crisp cloth builds volume, the more so with every gore or pleat.

It wears cool, which makes it a spring and summer fabric.

Care is simple: a machine wash at 30 to 40 °C.

It creases quickly and visibly, which is part of its character; a blend with viscose or cotton creases less.

Linen is spun from the flax plant, one of the oldest textile fibres. It is strong, cool to wear and crisp at first, softening with every wash.

Most European flax is grown in France, Belgium and the Netherlands, then spun and woven in Europe or in China.

It is usually left unlined in summer pieces; a tailored linen jacket takes a half lining at most.

A 70/10 to 80/12 needle; it frays, so finish seams with an overlock or French seams, and press while damp.

It takes dye well but softly, so colors read slightly washed, which is part of its look.

Its surface is matte, so it photographs evenly under flat light.

A coat in heavyweight linen, 260 to 350 g/m², with a crisp drape and a matte surface, for spring and summer.