Wool fabric guide
Wool Coat Design with AI
For a wool coat, most mills quote wool melton at 450 to 750 g/m²: a classic pairing.
Of the 13 cloths this guide lists for this cut, it sits between wool tweed and double-face cashmere in weight.
Next to double-face cashmere, it is lighter.
Wool Coat at a glance
- Cloth to ask your mill for
- Wool melton
- Typical weight
- 450 to 750 g/m²
- Drape
- Soft
- Stretch
- Slight
- Breathability
- High
- Warmth
- Warm
- Care
- Dry clean
- How common
- A classic pairing
- Typical cloth price
- $15-80/yard
Typical trade ranges, not one mill's figures: confirm them with your mill.
The coat, in numbers
- Typical length
- 95 to 115 cm, from the high point of the shoulder
- Defining details
- Lapel or stand collar, single- or double-breasted front, back vent, full lining
- Cloth needed
- about 2.8 to 3.6 m of 150 cm cloth, roughly $46 to $310 of cloth at typical prices
Typical figures for an adult size M. The pattern tier is set from the real piece count when you order.
How wool behaves on a coat
In a coat it tailors well: the shoulder rolls naturally and the lapel presses into a soft line.
Cut long, a soft cloth falls in deep folds and moves slowly.
It wears warm, which places it in autumn and winter collections.
The finished piece is usually labelled dry clean only.
It recovers from creases overnight and resists dirt, but it felts if washed hot and moths eat it in storage.
About wool
Wool is the fleece of the sheep: springy, warm even when damp and naturally resistant to odour. Fine merino feels soft against skin, while coarser wools give tweed and melton their body.
Fine merino comes mostly from Australia and New Zealand; Biella in Italy and Yorkshire in England are known for fine worsted cloths.
Wool dresses, skirts and tailoring are usually lined in viscose or cupro so they slide and do not itch.
Cutting, sewing and color
An 80/12 needle; wool shapes with steam, so ease a sleeve head or a curve with the iron rather than with extra seams.
It takes acid dyes evenly, and heathers and marls come from blending dyed fibres before spinning.
Its surface is matte, so it photographs evenly under flat light.
A description to start from
A coat in wool melton, 450 to 750 g/m², with a soft drape and a matte surface, for autumn and winter.
If wool is not quite right
- Lighter: Tweed, in wool tweed
- Heavier: Cashmere, in double-face cashmere
- Cooler: Cotton, in cotton gabardine
Also: how the studio works, prices and questions and answers.
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