Velvet fabric guide
Velvet Coat Design with AI
A velvet coat is a specialist order: ask for cotton velvet at 300 to 400 g/m², and expect fewer mills to take it on.
Of the 13 cloths this guide lists for this cut, it sits between heavyweight linen and double knit jersey in weight.
Next to heavyweight linen, it is heavier, more fluid, shinier and warmer to wear.
Velvet Coat at a glance
- Cloth to ask your mill for
- Cotton velvet
- Typical weight
- 300 to 400 g/m²
- Drape
- Soft
- Stretch
- None
- Breathability
- Low
- Warmth
- Warm
- Care
- Dry clean
- How common
- Niche, usually a specialist order
- Typical cloth price
- $12-40/yard
Typical trade ranges, not one mill's figures: confirm them with your mill.
The coat, in numbers
- Typical length
- 95 to 115 cm, from the high point of the shoulder
- Defining details
- Lapel or stand collar, single- or double-breasted front, back vent, full lining
- Cloth needed
- about 2.8 to 3.6 m of 150 cm cloth, roughly $37 to $160 of cloth at typical prices
Typical figures for an adult size M. The pattern tier is set from the real piece count when you order.
How velvet behaves on a coat
In a coat it tailors well: the shoulder rolls naturally and the lapel presses into a soft line.
Cut long, a soft cloth falls in deep folds and moves slowly.
It wears warm, which places it in autumn and winter collections.
The finished piece is usually labelled dry clean only.
The pile crushes under pressure and where it is sat on, and it marks when pressed flat, so it is steamed rather than ironed.
About velvet
Velvet is a woven cloth with a short, dense cut pile that gives it depth and a soft hand. It is made in cotton, in silk and viscose blends, and as a stretch velvet knitted with elastane.
Silk and viscose velvets for eveningwear are a speciality of mills in France and Italy; cotton velvets are made widely.
Velvet pieces are usually lined in a smooth fabric so the pile does not catch on what is underneath.
Cutting, sewing and color
Cut every piece with the pile running the same way, sew with a walking foot and press face down on a needle board.
The pile deepens dark shades, and the same color looks lighter or darker depending on the direction of the nap.
It has a soft sheen that shows the folds without glare.
A description to start from
A coat in cotton velvet, 300 to 400 g/m², with a soft drape and a soft sheen surface, for autumn and winter.
If velvet is not quite right
- Lighter: Linen, in heavyweight linen
- Heavier: Jersey, in double knit jersey
- Cooler: Cotton, in cotton gabardine
- More structure: Tweed, in wool tweed
Also: how the studio works, prices and questions and answers.
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