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Tweed fabric guide

Tweed Coat Design with AI

For a tweed coat, most mills quote wool tweed at 450 to 650 g/m²: a classic pairing.

Of the 13 cloths this guide lists for this cut, it sits between rigid denim and wool melton in weight.

Next to wool melton, it is lighter and firmer.

Coat in wool tweed, on a model in a studio
Rendered in the studio for this page

Tweed Coat at a glance

Cloth to ask your mill for
Wool tweed
Typical weight
450 to 650 g/m²
Drape
Structured, holds its own shape
Stretch
Slight
Breathability
Medium
Warmth
Warm
Care
Dry clean
How common
A classic pairing
Typical cloth price
$20-60/yard

Typical trade ranges, not one mill's figures: confirm them with your mill.

The coat, in numbers

Typical length
95 to 115 cm, from the high point of the shoulder
Defining details
Lapel or stand collar, single- or double-breasted front, back vent, full lining
Cloth needed
about 2.8 to 3.6 m of 150 cm cloth, roughly $61 to $240 of cloth at typical prices

Typical figures for an adult size M. The pattern tier is set from the real piece count when you order.

How tweed behaves on a coat

In a coat it holds a strong shoulder and a straight front almost without help from the canvas.

Cut long, a structured cloth is heavy and stiff, so it suits a straight, coat-like line more than a flowing one.

It wears warm, which places it in autumn and winter collections.

The finished piece is usually labelled dry clean only.

It is very hard-wearing and sheds light rain, but heavy tweed is bulky at the seams and stiff at first.

About tweed

Tweed is a rough, warm woollen cloth woven from yarns dyed before weaving, which gives it its flecks and its checks. It was made for the outdoors and remains one of the most durable cloths.

Harris Tweed is hand-woven in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland and carries its own certification mark; most other tweeds come from Scotland, England, Ireland and Italy.

Tweed jackets, coats and skirts are lined in viscose or cupro, for comfort and so the cloth does not catch.

Cutting, sewing and color

A 90/14 needle; match the check or the stripe at every seam, and tape the edges so they do not stretch.

Its color comes from yarns dyed before weaving, so the flecks are part of the cloth, not printed on it.

Its surface is matte, so it photographs evenly under flat light.

A description to start from

A coat in wool tweed, 450 to 650 g/m², with a structured drape and a matte surface, for autumn and winter.

If tweed is not quite right

Also: how the studio works, prices and questions and answers.

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