Linen fabric guide

Linen Gown Design with AI

A linen gown is a specialist order: ask for midweight linen at 180 to 250 g/m², and expect fewer mills to take it on.

Of the 10 cloths this guide lists for this cut, it sits between matte jersey and duchess satin in weight.

Next to matte jersey, it is heavier, firmer, cooler to wear and less stretchy.

Studio films

Typical trade ranges, not one mill's figures: confirm them with your mill.

Typical length: 145 to 160 cm, from the high point of the shoulder
Defining details: Boned bodice, full-length skirt, train, lining and interlining
Cloth needed: about 4.0 to 7.0 m of 150 cm cloth, roughly $44 to $230 of cloth at typical prices

Typical figures for an adult size M. The pattern tier is set from the real piece count when you order.

Cut into gowns, it stands away from the body, which suits volume, flared skirts and pleats more than a body-skimming cut.

Cut long, a crisp cloth builds volume, the more so with every gore or pleat.

It wears cool, which makes it a spring and summer fabric.

Care is simple: a machine wash at 30 to 40 °C.

It creases quickly and visibly, which is part of its character; a blend with viscose or cotton creases less.

Linen is spun from the flax plant, one of the oldest textile fibres. It is strong, cool to wear and crisp at first, softening with every wash.

Most European flax is grown in France, Belgium and the Netherlands, then spun and woven in Europe or in China.

It is usually left unlined in summer pieces; a tailored linen jacket takes a half lining at most.

A 70/10 to 80/12 needle; it frays, so finish seams with an overlock or French seams, and press while damp.

It takes dye well but softly, so colors read slightly washed, which is part of its look.

Its surface is matte, so it photographs evenly under flat light.

A gown in midweight linen, 180 to 250 g/m², with a crisp drape and a matte surface, for spring and summer.