Cotton fabric guide
Cotton Trench Coat Design with AI
For a cotton trench coat, most mills quote cotton gabardine at 200 to 300 g/m²: a classic pairing.
Of the 13 cloths this guide lists for this cut, it sits between polyester gabardine and duchess satin in weight.
Next to duchess satin, it is firmer, more matte and easier to care for.

Cotton Trench Coat at a glance
- Cloth to ask your mill for
- Cotton gabardine
- Typical weight
- 200 to 300 g/m²
- Drape
- Medium
- Stretch
- None
- Breathability
- High
- Warmth
- Neutral
- Care
- Machine wash at 30 to 40 °C
- How common
- A classic pairing
- Typical cloth price
- $5-15/yard
Typical trade ranges, not one mill's figures: confirm them with your mill.
The trench coat, in numbers
- Typical length
- 100 to 115 cm, from the high point of the shoulder
- Defining details
- Storm flap, epaulettes, belt with D-rings, back yoke, deep vent
- Cloth needed
- about 3.2 to 4.0 m of 150 cm cloth, roughly $17 to $66 of cloth at typical prices
Typical figures for an adult size M. The pattern tier is set from the real piece count when you order.
How cotton behaves on a trench coat
In a trench coat it takes interfacing and pressing evenly, so a classic tailored line comes out clean.
Cut long, a medium-weight cloth falls in a clean column and needs a deep hem to hang straight.
It is neither warm nor cool, so it works across most of the year.
Care is simple: a machine wash at 30 to 40 °C.
It creases moderately and can shrink by a few percent unless the cloth was pre-shrunk, so ask the mill whether it was.
About cotton
Cotton is a plant fibre spun into everything from fine poplin to heavy canvas. It breathes, absorbs moisture and softens with each wash, which is why it is the default cloth for everyday clothing.
Long-staple cottons such as Egyptian or Pima give a smoother, stronger cloth; organic and recycled cottons are widely available at a premium.
It rarely needs a lining, though a light cotton is lined or faced when a pale color would show what is underneath.
Cutting, sewing and color
Sew it with a universal 80/12 needle; flat-felled or overlocked seams both hold, and it presses well with steam.
It takes reactive dyes readily, so solid colors and prints both stay true after washing.
Its surface is matte, so it photographs evenly under flat light.
A description to start from
A trench coat in cotton gabardine, 200 to 300 g/m², with a medium drape and a matte surface, for most of the year.
If cotton is not quite right
- Lighter: Polyester, in polyester gabardine
- Heavier: Linen, in heavyweight linen
- Warmer: Wool, in wool melton
Also: how the studio works, prices and questions and answers.
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