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Cotton fabric guide

Cotton Shirt Design with AI

For a cotton shirt, most mills quote cotton poplin at 90 to 130 g/m²: a classic pairing.

Of the 12 cloths this guide lists for this cut, it sits between charmeuse satin and polyester crepe in weight.

Next to polyester crepe, it is more matte and less stretchy.

Shirt in cotton poplin, on a model in a studio
Rendered in the studio for this page

Cotton Shirt at a glance

Cloth to ask your mill for
Cotton poplin
Typical weight
90 to 130 g/m²
Drape
Medium
Stretch
None
Breathability
High
Warmth
Neutral
Care
Machine wash at 30 to 40 °C
How common
A classic pairing
Typical cloth price
$5-15/yard

Typical trade ranges, not one mill's figures: confirm them with your mill.

The shirt, in numbers

Typical length
72 to 80 cm, from the high point of the shoulder
Defining details
Collar and stand, split or one-piece yoke, front placket, barrel or French cuffs
Cloth needed
about 1.6 to 2.2 m of 150 cm cloth, roughly $9 to $36 of cloth at typical prices

Typical figures for an adult size M. The pattern tier is set from the real piece count when you order.

How cotton behaves on a shirt

On a shirt it keeps a clean, even line from shoulder to hem, the hand most tops are graded on.

At this length a medium-weight cloth hangs straight and moves a little at the hem.

It is neither warm nor cool, so it works across most of the year.

Care is simple: a machine wash at 30 to 40 °C.

It creases moderately and can shrink by a few percent unless the cloth was pre-shrunk, so ask the mill whether it was.

About cotton

Cotton is a plant fibre spun into everything from fine poplin to heavy canvas. It breathes, absorbs moisture and softens with each wash, which is why it is the default cloth for everyday clothing.

Long-staple cottons such as Egyptian or Pima give a smoother, stronger cloth; organic and recycled cottons are widely available at a premium.

It rarely needs a lining, though a light cotton is lined or faced when a pale color would show what is underneath.

Cutting, sewing and color

Sew it with a universal 80/12 needle; flat-felled or overlocked seams both hold, and it presses well with steam.

It takes reactive dyes readily, so solid colors and prints both stay true after washing.

Its surface is matte, so it photographs evenly under flat light.

A description to start from

A shirt in cotton poplin, 90 to 130 g/m², with a medium drape and a matte surface, for most of the year.

If cotton is not quite right

Also: how the studio works, prices and questions and answers.

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