Silk fabric guide
Silk Bomber Jacket Design with AI
A silk bomber jacket is a specialist order: ask for silk twill at 80 to 120 g/m², and expect fewer mills to take it on.
Of the 12 cloths this guide lists for this cut, it sits between polyester ripstop and jacket satin in weight.
Next to polyester ripstop, it is heavier, more fluid, shinier and more demanding to care for.
Silk Bomber Jacket at a glance
- Cloth to ask your mill for
- Silk twill
- Typical weight
- 80 to 120 g/m²
- Drape
- Fluid, falls close to the body
- Stretch
- None
- Breathability
- High
- Warmth
- Neutral
- Care
- Dry clean
- How common
- Niche, usually a specialist order
- Typical cloth price
- $15-100/yard
Typical trade ranges, not one mill's figures: confirm them with your mill.
The bomber jacket, in numbers
- Typical length
- 62 to 70 cm, from the high point of the shoulder
- Defining details
- Rib collar, cuffs and waistband, front zip, sleeve utility pocket
- Cloth needed
- about 1.8 to 2.2 m of 150 cm cloth, roughly $30 to $240 of cloth at typical prices
Typical figures for an adult size M. The pattern tier is set from the real piece count when you order.
How silk behaves on a bomber jacket
In a bomber jacket it gives a soft, unstructured shoulder; the fronts need a fusible or a canvas to keep a lapel.
At this short length a fluid cloth has little room to swing, so it reads through how it clings at the bust and the hip.
It is neither warm nor cool, so it works across most of the year.
The finished piece is usually labelled dry clean only.
Water can spot it, sunlight fades it and perspiration weakens it over time, so it suits occasion pieces more than daily wear.
About silk
Silk is a protein fibre unwound from the cocoon of the silkworm, the only natural filament fibre. It is light, strong for its weight and has a lustre no other fibre matches.
Most silk is reeled in China and India, and much of the finest is woven and printed around Como, in Italy; its weight is quoted in momme, about 4.3 g/m² each.
A silk piece is often left unlined, or lined in silk habotai when a pale color has to be opaque.
Cutting, sewing and color
Use a fine 60/8 or 70/10 needle, French seams and a press cloth; pins leave marks, so pin inside the seam allowance.
It takes acid dyes deeply, which is why a silk color looks richer than the same shade on cotton.
Its high sheen catches every fold, so light it from the side and keep the background quiet.
A description to start from
A bomber jacket in silk twill, 80 to 120 g/m², with a fluid drape and a high sheen surface, for most of the year.
If silk is not quite right
- Lighter: Polyester, in polyester ripstop
- Heavier: Satin, in jacket satin
- Warmer: Leather, in cowhide leather
- Easier to care for: Denim, in rigid denim
Also: how the studio works, prices and questions and answers.
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