Jersey fabric guide
Jersey Trench Coat Design with AI
A jersey trench coat is a specialist order: ask for double knit jersey at 350 to 450 g/m², and expect fewer mills to take it on.
Of the 13 cloths this guide lists for this cut, it sits between cotton velvet and rigid denim in weight.
Next to rigid denim, it is lighter, more fluid and stretchier.
Jersey Trench Coat at a glance
- Cloth to ask your mill for
- Double knit jersey
- Typical weight
- 350 to 450 g/m²
- Drape
- Soft
- Stretch
- Moderate
- Breathability
- Medium
- Warmth
- Neutral
- Care
- Machine wash cold, inside out
- How common
- Niche, usually a specialist order
- Typical cloth price
- $5-15/yard
Typical trade ranges, not one mill's figures: confirm them with your mill.
The trench coat, in numbers
- Typical length
- 100 to 115 cm, from the high point of the shoulder
- Defining details
- Storm flap, epaulettes, belt with D-rings, back yoke, deep vent
- Cloth needed
- about 3.2 to 4.0 m of 150 cm cloth, roughly $17 to $66 of cloth at typical prices
Typical figures for an adult size M. The pattern tier is set from the real piece count when you order.
How jersey behaves on a trench coat
In a trench coat it tailors well: the shoulder rolls naturally and the lapel presses into a soft line.
Cut long, a soft cloth falls in deep folds and moves slowly.
It is neither warm nor cool, so it works across most of the year.
Wash it cold and inside out to keep the color.
It hardly creases, but a light jersey can twist after washing and bag at the knees and elbows.
About jersey
Jersey is knitted, not woven: rows of interlocking loops that stretch in every direction. It is knitted in cotton, viscose, wool, silk and blends, often with elastane.
Jersey is knitted on circular machines almost everywhere; the yarn and the gauge decide its quality more than the place.
It is rarely lined; a second layer of the same jersey is used where a lining would be.
Cutting, sewing and color
A ballpoint or stretch needle and a stretch stitch or an overlock; let the cloth relax for a day before cutting.
It takes dye evenly and prints well, though stretch can thin the color at knees and elbows.
Its surface is matte, so it photographs evenly under flat light.
A description to start from
A trench coat in double knit jersey, 350 to 450 g/m², with a soft drape and a matte surface, for most of the year.
If jersey is not quite right
- Lighter: Velvet, in cotton velvet
- Heavier: Denim, in rigid denim
- Warmer: Wool, in wool melton
- More structure: Tweed, in wool tweed
Also: how the studio works, prices and questions and answers.
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